A Tour of the Lower Mill River History Trail

Shortly after I moved to Amherst, I saw a map that marked the area around the Mill River in North Amherst as “Factory Hollow.” There are no factories there now. Most of the area is conservation land and some has been re-developed. But there are a variety of tantalizing features still remaining to show how it was used historically.
I had spent a while looking years ago to see if anyone had written a history of Factory Hollow, but had come up empty. I was delighted when I found that the Amherst Historical Society has organized walking tours of the Lower and Upper Mill River to talk about the history of the factories and mills that were present. And the people built and worked in them.
Today, I attended a tour of the lower Mill River. It was led by Bryan Harvey, a former administrator at UMass Amherst who I’ve known for many, many years. He did a fantastic job pointing out where various structures were, how they were used, and what evidence remains today. He also pointed out a number of names of families that were involved: Puffer, Dickinson, Jones, Wheelock, Roberts, Hobart, and others, many of whom have roads or features named after them. A few are still active in the area.
We began at Puffer’s Pond. There was a ice house at the site of a current beach used recreationally by families today. Steve Puffer, who was still active in town when we arrived was (I think) the grandson of the men who created the pond that was used to power many of the mills. He was also instrumental in getting much of the land conserved. His grandson was in attendance for the tour and told a number of stories, including that a driving force behind conserving the land was that his wife was “the original NIMBY” and was opposed to having more people in the area.
We walked downstream from Puffer’s Pond and went by the elegant Wheelock house. It sits right on the edge of the dam and is the only house with frontage on the pond. It was originally built by one of the textile mill owners. It is currently owned by Cassandra Clare, a best-selling author.
An oak tree on the property was recorded as the largest in Amherst in 1845, with an amusing story behind it. Supposedly, the owner wanted it cut down, but the son (perhaps on orders from the wife) drove iron spikes into the tree making it infeasible to fell.


The dam that creates Puffer’s Pond is probably the third dam constructed at that location. Earlier dams were probably made with timbers. Although you can’t see it in the picture, there is a round pipe visible at the left side of the dam through which water flowed for a penstock that powered the mills in the hollow below. There were also two mills that were originally situated at the dam: a sawmill on the north bank and a grist mill on the south. In 1863, the dam failed and the resulting flood destroyed most of the mills in the hollow.
The mills in factory hollow were mostly on the north side of Mill River. Currently, this area has been rebuilt as housing, with a set of apartments and a line of single-family homes along the street. When the mills were present, there was a canal along the north side of the river that powered the mills. Little remains of the canal now, except a depression in ground where the canal ran. In some places some stonework can still be seen, but it was not visible from where we were.
The mills sprang up largely due to trade issues related to the Napoleonic wars. In response to British interference with shipping — and impressing sailors to serve on British warships =- the United States passed the Non-Importation Act in 1806. The Act was ineffective, but caused the price of textiles to rise. Local entrepreneurs saw an economic opportunity to make a profit and the first mill opened in 1809. After the war of 1812, the Act was repealed and many of the textile mills became unprofitable.
We walked the Julius Lester trail (named for another local author) that runs through conservation land on the south side of the river to the recreation area. There we looked at a water control structure that directed water into a canal to power the Old Grist Mill on Montague Road, one of the only historic mill buildings still standing in Amherst. Evidently, past this mill there was yet another mill farther down. I know there is a Mill Road in Hadley that is also along the same river probably had yet another mill.

At the conclusion of the tour we walked back to the starting point. I’ve registered for the Upper Mill River tour on November 1st. There is another whole set of mills on the streams above Puffer’s Pond. I’ve walked this trail before and seen the remains of foundations and water control structures. It should be fun!



























